Reading about ABS fumes made me worried as I share the same space with my Makerbot Replocator 2X so I designed and build this active exhaust with a fan I removed from some scraped equipment.
What you’ll see is the first version which is working perfectly but lacks the fineness and style which I will (maybe) do at a later stage. Nevertheless, it works fine, no smell in the office and no worries, no extra noise and no negative effect on the printer due to reduced temperature or airflow.
Files can be found here:
A 4x4x4” Cubic with 5 touch screens, sound, BT/Wi-Fi, run Apps, play sound and video, communicate and connect.
Smartphones are great but are not desktop natives. At your desk, your PC or smartphone are never at the right size and position to share content and view multiple sources simultaneously. Using your smartphone to show apps, videos or images to someone sitting in front of you is never comfortable. Tilting your computer screen cause you to bend over and stretch across your desk. When several gusts are sitting around your meeting room you lose control once you give away your smartphone to be circulated. When using your smartphone at your desk you have to hold it in order to view the screen, lay it on the table to do something else and hold it again to see if the stock you are following has changed or to view the clock again to make sure you are not late for your next meeting.
iCube is a desktop Multiscreen Cubic Computer (MC2) running tablet OS and apps. With 5 hires touch screens (faces) and dual speakers on the bottom face delivering hi-fi sound, iCube store and play all popular AV media formats. Equipped with BT and Wi-Fi, iCube communicates with servers and gadgets and can be controlled using own GUI or remote desktop applications.
Syncing with smartphone’s and desktop’s email and calendar applications, iCube is the ideal platform to manage daily tasks on one face while presenting other information on other faces.
iCube includes high density battery allowing 2 weeks between charges under normal usage conditions, utilizes very large SSD and accepts external memory cards in designated slot on the bottom face.
Made from stripes of wood glued to MDF backbones.
Taking a faulty swollen battery apart in order to examine the Li Po cells.
To be continues with analysis and hopefully replacing cells.
Dedicated to Rotem with Love.
It appears that after a crash or even a modest hit the camera may get life of its own. As shown in the video bellow, the gimbal starts to vibrate and shake with no apparent reason and the remote has no control over it. Sometimes it will get fixed by itself and you can fly, but you should expect it to go wild again and need to fix the gimbal.
What may look like control / firmware issue is a simple mechanical failure of the gimbal’s X axis which upon good side impact will get loose from its base. As shown in image A below, the axis marked green should be firmly snagged in the yellow marked bore.
Once the axis is released from its base, the only thing that holds the motor in place is the round magnet of the brushless motor. It will hold it with enough strength and you may have no clue that it is broken. It also may work for some time after the impact but once the axis turns freely it will misalign the camera position and the trimmer-potentiometer located on the other side of the motor will not read correct physical position of the camera.
Image B shows a post impact trimmer and its misalignment with the camera on the X-axis. The trimmer is the feedback mechanism of the micro-controller which reads the trimmer resistance based on its angular position (like a volume button) and assumes the camera is aligned with it. When the reading is extreme to one of the ends, the controller tries to fix it and starts bouncing quite radically.
The proper alignment of the trimmer is shown in the image C, note the blue lines, the trimmer flat notch should be parallel with the flat edge of the PCB. Don’t worry about slight misalignment, the gimbal can work with that.
To fix the problem I remounted the axis using extreme strength treads locker (Loctite or similar) and clamped the motor in place overnight to allow the bond to fully cure.
Not knowing in advance what I am dealing with, I took the camera off the quad but you don’t have to, you can do the work leaving the gimbal attached to the body. If you do take it apart, you can use plastic wire fasteners instead of the anti-drop pins which you have to cut during disassembly.
A test flight I did today gave very good results, no evidence of the problem. However, I am not sure how long this will hold, the axis might be released again and I will have to repeat the fix. This is why I used soft Loctite and not hard metal bonding formulas that will make it difficult to remove residues in due time.
As for DJI, it seems to me they are aware of the problem but will not tell you how to fix it, they will however ask you t ship it back.